Bavabuka Video, A List, and a Rhino Sighting

Check out this freestyle done especially for us at Bavabuka in Kampala!

What an incredible organization. Refer to my previous entries for further information, or google it.

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Things Always on the Mind in Uganda

Did I take my malaria pill?

Are there many large bugs in the latrine?

When is dinner?

That is the largest spider I have ever seen.

It's true what they say about the African sun.

Is this mzungu price?

Can I add cheese?

How did the conflict effect him or her?

Am I sunburnt?

Are there mosquitos inside my net?

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Though short, a wee trek through the bush warmed my being. My adoration for wandering in the wild is quenched. I saw a family of rhinos today. No fences were present for miles. Their silence pleased me. Humanity is, if I dare say, the loudest species. I... I feel more akin to the quiet of nature... the simple presence and living beside one another. The unutterable care for living.

... And mutatuse, oh they do jostle, tumble, and bump.

Love, love, love,

Karen

The Mango Tree

In the hottest time

of the descending sun

sturdy, aged limbs

support the thick fingers

that wrap my body

in cool relief

During the earliest mornings

and the late afternoons

these limbs have born

sweet sustenance for my existence

born from one limb

to two hands

to one life

Hip-Hop in Gulu

I do not know
if I like the American hip-hop
played here in Gulu

Do not mistake me,
I like its beat, its melody,
the way it makes my body move

But I do no like the glory
it hands to violence, sex, and money
in a land of beauty and long strife

I much prefer the drums
of the Acholi people
and the pride of the Bwola dance

Oh, Beans!

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Oh, that good ol’ Acholi food…

So many beans… not enough Bean-o! Hahahaha. Just needed to make an appropriate and honest fart joke at the moment. Hope this does not surprise you.

This week has been busy already! I’ve been working in the office with Danielle, Catherine, and Jennifer Labuke (a past teacher in Gulu and now a member of our team for logistics for the teacher exchange). I have been inventorying, creating posters, sending meeting minutes, and generally enjoying feeling productive (I know, so American).

Just this evening, I rode double on a boda…. and those metal bars on the back sure don’t feel so splendid on the tail-bone! We continue to have to be stern about the prices of boda rides. However, I do not blame the local people here for trying to get “muzungu” price from us. They’re just trying to make a living. If they can get away with it, why not. However, we have to do our best to maintain the correct price.

The children here are so splendid. They way and say “Hello!” or “How are you?” or “Bye!” The communal society here is phenomenal. Though they have fairly rigid conceptions of gender roles in their culture, they have little desire to compete with one another. This is apparent when calling boda drivers. When there are three boda drivers and one makes it to me before the others… none of them yell, argue, or get upset. They are so very… chill, yes, that’s the word, chill. They understand that this competition will only make enemies, and these are their friends.

Many of the teachers, upon their return today, are realizing that they cannot change their partner teacher’s outlook on interactions in the classroom in one single bound. They must learn to work within certain boundaries and to negotiate others. They must learn to make strong relationships very slowly with people that are just like any other people… you may like them, you may not. I’m enthralled to learn more through their eyes.

Today, also, I helped in a facilitation of a round circle session at Gulu High School. We sat with two pairs of teacher exchange participants (we as in Catherine, Danielle, and myself). We discussed what each participant’s individual definition of partner teaching was, what they foresaw the benefits and challenges to be, how to overcome those challenges, and the use of language in the classroom and school system.

The teachers saw that the have a partner teacher could increase the quality of education for their students, develop cross-cultural friendships, and give them personal growth in their own lives. They realized that there would be challenges in communication and views of how to teach. They determined that at every point they experienced a failure (students not learning at their best), they could use it as an opportunity to learn themselves and to develop.

The discussion about language was interesting. Apparently, I had no idea, us Americans are very loud and fast talking (wink, wink). We must learn to slow down (in almost every way) here in Acholiland. We also talked about how English came to be seen as the “correct” language (through domination of America in the economy of the world). However, I had posed this question to Catherine and Danielle a few nights ago, regarding how they felt about the use of English as the official language in Uganda. Catherine promptly responded, “Well, what do you think?” I told her that I felt that having a common language among the many tribes was useful to communication (a passion of mine). I also felt that it reduced the likelihood of tensions between the tribes if only one tribe’s language was chosen as the official language.

Interestingly, this is much the same answer that the teachers gave. Actually, exactly the same. It is also (unfortunately, yet fortunately for me), English is the lingua franca of the world… it is the language of business and when whether I like it or not, this is a global economy and global society at the moment. Everyone is trying to adjust and adapt just to keep themselves from going under.

Well, I’m going to go back to listening to the teachers in this room talk about hemorrhoids, natural birth in water with a dolphin, and the like. Yes, yes, I’m serious.

Within community,

Karen

Learning: "I don't know"

Saturday, June 19, 2010

I have gained confidence today. I awoke in a quite optimistic mood. I went to three facilitations of initial partner teaching contract development and information reception meetings. I was of great use there.

Today, I also received more information about my duties at the Invisible Children office within the realm of the teacher exchange. I will be doing a great deal of data entry, meeting notes, and attendance tracking. I will also be creating posters for informing the American teachers. I do get to (at some point) do classroom observation and attend roundtables developed by Catherine and Danielle. I would like to find time to travel to the St. Jude’s here to sing and play with the small children there.

Today, we went through the most beautiful grove of towering, thin trunked trees on bodas. Small children yelled, “Munu, munu, munu!” as we passed. I waved and smiled, responding “Acholi! Acholi!”

I adore the lack of social filtration in children across all cultures. They do not fear verbalizing their thoughts. It makes me glad. A young girl walking with her mother spoke to me in Luo. Her mother turned and told me that her child said I was her sister... she followed behind me for half of a block. It warmed my heart.

I had my first experience shopping for the teachers staying at camps outside of Gulu. Every weekend I will be shopping for their camps at the grocery store and the market. We most certainly got the “muzungu” price much too often. I am learning what the standard prices are and demanding fairness. I often ask, “Is this the Acholi price or the munu price?”

We saw off Amy, the director of the exchange, as she left for Kampala. She was so very sad to leave. I will miss her greatly as she is quite the guiding force in this organization. She will be in contact via e-mail, I am sure.

We went for a few beers at a local tavern called KSP. We were allowed to see the view from the top of the roof. It was picturesque, quite astonishing to see the view of Gulu from above.

The night was a night of great growth for me. I interacted more with the participating teachers. I also ended up giving a cigarette to the man guarding the bank next to the bar. He asked for one and I said, “You are the one with the gun, I’ll give you what you want.” We both laughed quite a bit.

He and I discussed both our works here in Gulu. He was born and raised here. His family passed down land to him (as is customary within the Acholi trive). After a time, began to ask me if I could connect him to anyone who could help him financially. I responded in saying that I work with IC to help develop the education sector so that bright students can further their education to create a good economy and government in Uganda.

He inquired further about be connecting him with an organization to help him personally. I explained a few IC programs and then told him I would ask my boss.

Here is where I learned the most. I learned that I may be asked this question time and again. I learned that my best response is to briefly describe what I do in Gulu with IC and that I do not know how best to answer such a question.

I also learned that I have a strong desire to answer the questions of those I meet. For most of my life, I have been taught that a right answer is what counts. I am learning here that “I don’t know” is the most correct and honest answer I can give to questions such as this.

Today was indeed a day of learning and growing.

I shall continue this learning.

With illumination,
Karen

About IC

Thursday, June 17, 2010

I do not believe I gave the informational sessions I have had justice.

Jolly is truly a brilliant and expressive woman. She gave us a splendid overview of what IC is all about. I am sure I will see much more of her in the next few months.

Our language lesson was also a good overview. I felt that the lesson attempted to give too much information with too little practice in too little time. Amy and Catherine assured me later that it was only meant for pronunciation training and peaking interest for individual study.

The following is the Luo I have used / understand (Luo is the language of the Acholi people):

Afoyo - Hello, Goodbye, and Thank You

Munu (Luo) / Muzungu (Swahili) - white person

Icho mabey - Good morning
Acho mabey - Good morning (response)

Irii mabey - Good afternoon
Acho mabey - Good afternoon (response)

Kope - good

The discussion about Ugandan teaching was quite informative. The Ugandan school system is heavily influenced by the prior British colonialism and by missionary work from the past. There is not a separation of church and state. They are very formal, lecture extensively, and mostly prepare students for their exams that determine if they go further in their educational career. Teachers do little preparation in the sense of teaching aids and discussion.

The Ugandan teachers involved in the teacher exchange do so voluntarily. They are often open to learning new methods and strategies and sharing their own with the U.S. teachers. Yet, at this moment, it is important to note that the teacher exchange is not, I repeat, NOT about the US teachers being experts who tell the Ugandan teachers how it's done. This experience is rooted in the concepts from Paulo Freire's Pedagogy for Liberation. The program focuses on a paradigm of dialogical interaction and communication, where all individuals are learners and teachers with the capacity to be critical and willing to change and grow. These ideas came out in our discussion this morning centered upon Freire's text. I will talk about this at greater length, as it will weave into our days and discussions as these progress.

The final discussion yesterday illuminated the experience of going to school and teaching during the conflict. The conflict is a difficult topic to discuss in the Acholi culture. "Relative peace" has grown over the past few years, yet the emotional and psychological impact of the quarter century long conflict is apparent within the people.

There is no sure-fire solution to remove the fear and anguish from the survivors. IC has worked to develop (over the past two years) a curriculum called KOBS (Knowledge of Behavior and Self). It is meant to be used for two full years in the schools to build children's awareness of how they interact with their peers in an emotional manner. There is a great deal of emotional instability in the schools , and IC and Ugandan teachers are working toward a more positive social climate for education to occur within.

I will write later about the various programs occurring on the ground here in Gulu by IC. They are fascinating. The more I become involved with IC, the more I agree with and am impressed by their programs.

With a grin,

Karen

Feeling the Groove

Thursday, June 17, 2010

As the world would have it, this evening we went out for a few beers... AND DANCING. This honestly brought me into my true self. I danced for well over an hour. The entire group circled around a glowing bulb on the lawn and broke it down to a DJ playing hip-hop and reggae. Our waitress came to me and said, "I want to dance with you, but I do not like this song." I promptly responded, "You tell the DJ what song you want and we will dance." She asked, "What song would you like?" I told her, "Anything fast." It was lovely. We danced to "Mamacita."

I also told the bartender about seasons... which is hard to describe to someone who lives in a country with the equator running through it.

I told Catherine how I was feeling about my position within the social climate of the group and she comforted me. She told me I was doing very well and to allow this place to be a place where I can be myself. She is splendid.

Over the past few days, we have received a talk from Jolly and Patrick, a Luo language lesson, a talk about a day in the life of a Ugandan teacher, a very detailed description of IC on the ground in Gulu, and a very enlightening talk about teaching during the conflict.

I learned that the Bill passed by congress that was originated by IC is not completely accepted by Ugandans. Some support it, some continue to feel an attachment to their abducted children that may still be alive with the LRA.

I also had quite the misadventure on a boda today. I was withing (I now know) a block from the office and thought I was lost. I asked a boda to take me to IC or Petche Stadium. He drove me a few miles (beautiful country side) and then ha to take me back to the market for a different boda. It cost me 2,000 shillings to get home (which is less than $1)... but it usually takes only 500 shillings. Ridiculous.

Oh, and tonight, the bar owner's dog followed some of us all the way home. We may have been the only people to pet him in a long time. (Dogs are only used for hunting and guarding here in Gulu.)

Overall, I am becoming acclimated and oriented here. Week 1 of a 19 (soon to be 33) person household will always be a time of listening for me. That is how I learn.

Must get some rest. Good times lay ahead.

With a booty wiggle,

Karen

Traveling to Gulu

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

When we arrived in Uganda, we met our driver and his crew (James et. al.). He is a very nice and knowledgeable man. I shout talk with him soon.

James took us to BACKPACKERS, a hostel in Kampala. The hostel was quite cozy. We slept in a dormitory, ate delicious eggs and toast, and were able to use the Internet. Amy and Cat weren't lying - Ugandan coffee is less than good.

On the first day, we visited Lubiri - an A and O level school in Kampala. It has one of the highest rates of student acceptance into universities. It is both a boarding and non-boarding school. Students have uniforms according to grade level (which is not by age). There is teacher housing provided. Teachers are outrageously underpaid and work hard (they have approximately 12 classes per day from 7:30 AM - 5:00 PM).

The two teachers I talked with appeared to love their jobs. These teachers also willingly told me about their continued use of caning. Though, I do not support violence, I can understand the use of such a measure. We learned that teachers are hired by the state and the state can move them from one district to the next whenever the government would like.

That aside, I do not know how Lubiri prepares their students for their terrifying exit / entrance exams. Their class sizes are huge. The students must pay $250 per term, double if they wish to stay in the dormitories. That is a small fortune for most families.

Overall, the school seemed quite well administrated. The students seemed happy. Their artwork was beautiful. Their library was impressive.

We went for a Persian dinner at Sam's in the city. So many people are in constant motion here! The buildings are functional, but not brand new (unlike America's obsession with new, shiny buildings). They drive on the left side of the road. The boda, bicycle, and car traffic is quite extensive.

The predominant tribe in Kampala are the Lugandans; their language is Bugandan. They are the upper class. The Acholi are the lower class. I have been warned that the Acholi's schools are much worse off than those in Kampala.

Also, random thought, the economy of Uganda greatly depends on tourism from Europe (safaris, rafting, etc.). With the European economy suffering, the Ugandan economy suffers.

So, today we visited Bavabuka. It is a youth empowerment organization. I learned more there than I have in a month's worth of college. Bavabuka was given a space out of some one's generosity where they do not have to pay rent.

At Bavabuka, youth are given the space to express themselves through any medium they choose. It is a community that supports the empowerment of women to leave their homes to work and be a part of their society outside of home maintenance. The youth have fortes in areas such as MCing, rapping, visual arts (screen printing), music, break dancing, poetry, writing, and much more.

One of the young gentlemen won the Ugandan competition for best MC. Another is East Africa's #1 visual artist. I purchased a screen printed t-shirt especially made by him for the teacher exchange group.

At Bavabuka, the youth were very expressive. The young women were developing a program called Phenomenal Woman. This program is in great need of financial support. It is geared toward reaching out to women across Uganda to speak for their own rights.

The youth MCs put on a performance for us, encouraging us to sing-a-long in any way that moved us. The difference between their community and ours was apparent. It took us a long time to warm-up to singing whatever we felt like singing... but we got there.

I talked with Brian, a man who comes to the US to talk about Bavabuka. He talked about his aspirations when he was young to be a teacher. He realized that within Bavabuka, he was not only able to teach empowerment, he was able to learn much more. He felt that Bavabuka was just as crucial to the development of the youth as education was.

Overall, this youth empowerment organization has the right idea. They give the youth somewhere to express their freedom, to gain validation from a community and not one "leader," to live, not learn about others living from books, but experience it. I want to incorporate this when I teach.

The drive to Gulu was beautiful. We saw chickens and goats and cows eating the weeds and bugs from underneath the plants. We saw monkeys crossing the road. There was a good deal of agriculture (many banana trees). I talked with a lovely young woman named Allison.

NOTE TO SELF: I can be much too serious... but Allison did not mind talking about serious things.

Gulu is now an up-and-coming city. It may be the second "qualified" city in Uganda. So much life, truly.

Well, this is me, signing off for the night. I sleep and await a new day.

With thanks,

Karen

This Is an Experience

(I will be typing the journal I am keeping in a hand-written form. Postings will be later than when I wrote them.)

Monday, June 14, 2010.

This is an experience.

The flight to London was manageable. London was gorgeous. I got to take in the sights and get to know the three women I'll be working with this summer. Amy (the IC Teacher Exchange creator and director), Catherine (the coordinator), and Danielle (logistic and finance). These three have known each other since the program began. Amy knew one of the three documentary makers since she was six (they met in acting class).

We had a few drinks, some dinner, and headed for Entebbe.

In some ways, I feel a bit removed from this outstanding trio. I also feel somewhat separated fro the teachers on the exchange. Simply, I am the youngest one here and am not yet a teacher. In a group of 19 outspoken teachers that are older than myself, it's hard to interact. But, I am accepting that I do not have to be outspoken. I have always been a more one-on-one person.

Overall, the landscape is breathtaking and we're in Uganda's capitol - Kampala.

I will have to talk more about the life of Kampala, the hostel, and the school we visited in greater detail later.

Kampala streets seem to have no traffic laws. However, it reminds me much of NYC.

With eyes and ears open,

Karen

Eastward Bound

The equilibrium of the train car jostles to rediscover and rediscover itself as I extend my eyes upward. I admire the barren, smooth, often miraculously tree-dotted cliffs of New York. After a day of reading about the past, present, and desired future of Africa's educational institutions and reading the entirety of what is now seen as an African classic, I cannot keep the feeling of disgust in the face of greed from discomforting me. These glorious masterpieces of Mother Nature, the cliffs, are crowned with mansions, the cliffs' beauty claimed by the highest bidder. Yet, unbeknownst by the "land owners" (what a ridiculous term), I am fully aware that ownership is a trick of human perception. All ultimately belongs to all.

In regards to the previously mentioned African classic:

It is titled Song of Lawino; it is a song poem crafted by Okot p'Bitek. It was originally written in Acholi, then translated to English. It is a very witty expression of a very hard look at the effect of colonialism and globalization upon the communities of Uganda.

The speaker in the poem, Lawino, is suffering the "civilization" and "progress" of her husband who is incapable of integrating both "Western knowledge" and "Tribal knowledge" into his one mind.

One idea expressed by Lawino that intrigued me:

"Where is the Peace of Uhuru?

Where the unity of Independence?

Must it not begin at home?

...

And all the tribes of Uganda

How can they become one?"

This thought struck me because for all the talk I talk about peace, I continue to have a deep understanding that not all people wish to govern themselves in the same manner. Though I find borders to be strange, most especially those weaving across Africa, I do not find sovereignty strange in the least.

In regards to my new knowledge relating to Africa's education system:

Africa, for many centuries, has had colonial and corporate interests working to strip its people of not only land, labor, and resources, but also its rich culture, political systems, economies, social norms and mores, religion, and much more. Africa's education in the 21st Century has much ground not only to make, but to re-possess from the Eurocentric policies instituted by missionaries and colonizers. Africa must assess what its population truly needs to focus on:

• HIV / AIDS epidemic
• Sustainable land usage
• ICT
• Literacy
• Gender Equality
• Empowerment of the people
• Functionality in a "global community"

I feel that from what I know so far about the schools Invisible Children is involved with, I believe they want these goals to become realities in Northern Uganda... and their form of aid does not come with mandatory sales taxes or outrageous interest rates.

Currently, I continue to keep expectations for the next two months of my life at bay. However, a general electric charge can be seen scampering across my synapses and letting off sparks of energetic excitement quite frequently.

With love in my heart and a jig in my step,

Karen